Tower Bridge lit up at night, seen from the top of the Shard
Tower Bridge from the top of the Shard.

Like Barcelona, London was a trip for just the two of us. We went in November, right as the city was turning on for Christmas, and it was magical: lights strung over the streets, Christmas trees everywhere, and a corner pub waiting whenever we got cold.

The people were amazing, too. Everyone we met was friendly and happy to help.

Trip at a Glance

WhoJust the two of us.
WhenNovember, when the Christmas lights and markets open.
Where we stayedJW Marriott Grosvenor House on Park Lane, Mayfair.
HighlightsA red bus tour of the holiday lights, Covent Garden at Christmas, the Shard at night, the Tower of London, the British Museum, the Natural History Museum, and fish and chips in corner pubs.
Getting aroundWalking and taxis. Both were easy.

Where We Stayed: Grosvenor House

We stayed at JW Marriott Grosvenor House on Park Lane, looking out over Hyde Park. It's one of the nicest hotels we've ever stayed in.

Mayfair is one of London's most elegant neighborhoods: red-brick townhouses, quiet garden squares, and some very nice cars parked out front. It's also central, so the shopping streets and many of the main sights are an easy walk or a short taxi ride away.

Red-brick Mayfair townhouses with luxury cars parked along the street
Mayfair streets.
Ferrari parked outside a Mayfair townhouse in London
Typical Mayfair parking.

A Red Bus Tour of the Holiday Lights

One of the best things we did was a red double-decker bus tour at night to see the holiday lights. You ride past the decorated shopping streets, the big landmarks lit up, and all the light displays without walking miles in the cold.

Christmas lights strung over a busy London shopping street at night with a red double-decker bus
Lights over the shopping streets, and a red double-decker.
Giant illuminated chandelier with the Chanel logo hanging over a London street at Christmas
Even the shops hang chandeliers over the street.
Star-shaped Christmas lights over a London street, seen from the top of a red bus tour
The view from the bus: lights the whole way down the street.
A London department store lit up in red for the holidays with numbered windows like an advent calendar
Whole buildings light up for the holidays.

Sit upstairs

On a double-decker lights tour, grab a seat on the top deck, as close to the front as you can. That's where you get the views.

Covent Garden at Christmas

Covent Garden goes all out for Christmas. The old market hall was hung with giant red bows and bells, the piazza was filled with decorated Christmas trees, and brands had set up pop-ups all over: a Jo Malone London Christmas shop, a vintage green bus serving Sipsmith gin, and a pink car with a Christmas tree strapped to the roof.

Covent Garden market hall decorated with giant red bows and bells for Christmas
The Covent Garden market hall, decked out for Christmas.
Jo Malone London Christmas pop-up with a giant bow and marquee lights in Covent Garden
The Jo Malone London Christmas pop-up.
Vintage green Sipsmith gin bus decorated for Christmas in Covent Garden
The Sipsmith gin bus.
Christmas trees filling the Covent Garden piazza in front of St Paul's Church
A forest of Christmas trees in the piazza.
Giant Christmas tree in a wooden barrel in Covent Garden
Covent Garden's Christmas tree.
Pink vintage car with a Christmas tree on the roof in Covent Garden
A pink car with a tree on top. Why not?

We also found a Christmas market packed with wooden huts, food stalls, and a fire pit for toasted marshmallows.

Crowds at a London Christmas market under trees strung with lights
A London Christmas market.
Toasted marshmallows stall at a London Christmas market
Toasted marshmallows.

Go late afternoon

Get to Covent Garden around 4 PM. You'll see the decorations in daylight, then watch everything light up as it gets dark.

The Shard at Night

For the best view in the city, we went up the Shard after dark. All of London is lit up below you, with Tower Bridge glowing over the Thames. It was decorated for Christmas, too, and we toasted the trip with champagne at the top.

London at night from the Shard with Tower Bridge and the Thames below
The view from the top.
Jason and Heather toasting with champagne at the top of the Shard
Champagne at the top.
Tall Christmas tree inside the viewing gallery at the Shard
Christmas at the top of the Shard.

Go after dark

Book a timed ticket for just after sunset, which is early in November. You get the whole city lit up, and you can see the Christmas lights from above.

The Tower of London and Tower Bridge

We toured the Tower of London on our own with an audio guide and headphones, which let us go at our own pace and linger wherever we wanted. It holds nearly 1,000 years of history and is home to the Crown Jewels. It sits right beside Tower Bridge, with London Bridge just upriver, so it's easy to see all of them in one outing.

Self-guided works great

The audio guide is an easy way to see the Tower of London as a couple. There's no group to keep up with, and you can skip ahead or stop and listen longer wherever you like.

Two Museums Worth Your Time

London's big museums are free to enter, and we made time for two of them.

At the British Museum, you walk into the Great Court under a huge glass-and-steel roof wrapped around the old round Reading Room. That first view alone is worth the trip.

The Great Court of the British Museum with its glass roof and round Reading Room
The Great Court at the British Museum.

The Natural History Museum is just as impressive from the outside as the inside. Hintze Hall, the main hall, has a blue whale skeleton hanging from the ceiling, and the fossil halls include a mammoth.

Jason and Heather in winter hats outside the Natural History Museum in London
Bundled up outside the Natural History Museum.
Blue whale skeleton hanging in Hintze Hall at the Natural History Museum
The blue whale in Hintze Hall.
Mammoth skeleton on display at the Natural History Museum, London
Meeting the mammoth.

Corner Pubs and Fish and Chips

We loved the corner pubs. There seems to be one on every block, each one cozy and a little different, and they're the perfect place to warm up after walking around in the cold. And order the fish and chips. We loved them.

Jason and Heather at a table in a cozy London pub
Warming up in a London pub.
Jason smiling at lunch in a London restaurant
Lunch break.

London is also full of pastry shops and old-fashioned sweet shops, and the windows alone are worth the walk.

Window display of cakes and pastries at a London patisserie
Pastry windows like this are everywhere.
Pick-and-mix sweets in glass jars at a London candy shop
An old-school sweet shop.

Getting Around

London was easy. Walking to the main attractions was fairly simple from Mayfair, and when we didn't want to walk, taxis were everywhere. The classic black cabs are easy to hail, and the drivers know the city inside and out.

Tips for London at Christmas

  • Go in November. The lights and markets are up, and it's less crowded than the weeks right before Christmas.
  • See the lights from a bus. A red double-decker lights tour covers a lot of ground in one evening.
  • Plan for early sunsets. It's dark by late afternoon, which is perfect for the lights and the Shard.
  • Pack for cold and damp. A warm coat, a hat, a scarf, and shoes you can walk in all day.
  • Use the free museums. The British Museum and the Natural History Museum are free to enter, so you can pop in for an hour.

A Magical Getaway

London at Christmas was magical. If you're looking for a winter getaway with your person, put it on the list.

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